Step one on the assembly is uniting the components finally. Here we have the wafer and the lens body side by side. You can see the wafer will seat perfectly inside the lens body.
Using a drop or two of superglue, secure the wafer inside the lens body. Take great care to make sure you get it as level as possible so you don't have any dead spots on your ccd. Do not install until the glue is completely dry.
Screw the lens body back into the circuit board. Here, I have to also point out one other thing: The seal around the bottom of the lens mounting bracket and the circuit board is not very good. In fact it stinks. Usually this is not an issue. But this board has a green surface mounted LED on it on the right side there. This produces enough light that it seeps through the crack between the mount and the board making it impossible for the ccd to show the alpha particle interactions. To address this problem, I just smashed the LED, but I suppose if you wanted to be clever, as this LED does indicate status of the system being on, you could de-solder it, solder on some new leads, and then mount an LED on the box somewhere.
Another trip to our home improvement store resulted in this nice copper sheeting. This is used on roofs as flashing... but we will be using it for shielding. As stated before, this is not necessarily to shield against radiation leakage, but more to shield against EMI. Line the inside of the project box with the copper foil and attach some leads to it.
Place the camera into the case using some wire cutters to make a small notch in the side of the box for the wire to come out through. Using some electrical tape, wrap the camera board up to prevent any possible problems with it touching the shielding. Using some hot glue, secure the board in place making sure said board is not in contact with the shielding.
Finally close up the project box with the provided screws. This would be a good time to start thinking of strange things to stencil on the outside of the box. Connect this back to your computer to make sure it worked. I recommend using a hub inline between the computer and the mysterious black box for the test connection, as a short or bad ground can severely damage a computer. Using a hub inline will prevent this at the possible expense of the hub.
