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| The Logitech Momo racing wheel is a
really high quality controller. Leather wrapped, solid feeling, and with good
secure mounting hardware. All the way around a really impressive controller.
But for over a hundred bucks new that should be expected! This being the core
to the entire simulator it is important not to screw up this mod unless you
have another one of these lying around. |
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When we remove the cover of the Momo we
can see that there are 2 shifter handles and sets of electronics on the left
and right, one for Euros and one for Yanks. One large motor in the middle that
has 2 power leads going to it. There is a pot in the center of the wheel that
is how the controller knows where it is. I recommend splicing into that and
running it to the center of the axle on the motion systems platform if you want
to take the time. This will help keep the action of the platform true, and
allow the platform to self center more accurately. |
| A close up view of one of the shifter
controllers. This comes out as a single unit. We will be extracting one of
these so carefully remove it and set it aside. Cut the cable that goes to the
shifter control so you have some room to splice into them later. As there are 2
of these, I recommend removing the opposite of the norm for your country so you
also have the original shifter as well. |
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When it comes to this project we wanted
to be as accommodating as possible when it comes to users. One way we chose to
do this was an adjustable seat. Another is making the steering wheel adjustable
as well. Using one of the locking sliders for seats, mount it between the frame
and the arm that holds the wheel so you have the most adjustability possible. |
| With the seat slider in place and the arm
mounted to it we're all set to mount the wheel. The height of the mounting arm
was a shot from the hip on what felt good (is it just me or did that statement
sound perversely French?). The arm is 28 inches tall and 23 inches across. The
arm just exceeds the second locking clamp so we dont have a large overhang. |
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While we were mounting the steering wheel
we found a little trick to keep this comfortable. We cut the end of the upright
on the arm at about 30 degrees so the wheel sat in a comfortable position. With
that done we simply clamped the wheel in place and took a seat for a test fit. |
| Super-Mart or Super home building
supplies store has some flexible conduit that has a cut down the side of it.
Run all the cables from the controller down to the control console and break
and gas pedals. Zip ties or electrical tape work well to secure it to the
steering wheel arm. |
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On the side of the controller melt a hole
with a soldering iron so you can feed the wires in and out of the controller.
This will help keep the wiring clean. |
| Using some additional wire splice into
the shifter controls you removed earlier and run the cable down to the control
box for shifter relocation. |
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Next splice into the motor and run the
cable down to the relay cluster in the back. Make sure you're just splicing
into, don't just cut it or you wont have feedback in the wheel. |
| When the last cables have been run,
finalize the conduit install. Using some electrical tape, tape the conduit so
that its lined up with the hole we melted in the side of the controller so that
its all nice and clean. Take this as one last look at the internal wiring to
make sure the cables are not in the way, or too near the motor or gears. |
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Next up is to run the cabling inside. The
pedals use a cable that looks a 9 pin serial cable. Using a soldering iron melt
some holes at the seam and run them in the holes so that with the cover on the
cables are all neat and tidy. Run the cables down the conduit and to the
appropriate places for them. |
| So there you have it. The main part of
the mod is done. It didn't take alot of work, and the end result I think looks
nice.
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