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Next up is to install the ionic cooler in the chassis.
Make sure you push it back far enough you can get the front covers back in
the case. Use a couple 1/4 inch brass screws to hold it in place for the long
haul. Reinstall the drive bay covers in the case. The covers each have a
washable mesh filter in them. Remove them to help with airflow. |
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Mount the control interface in the bay for the floppy
drive. Connect the reset switch to the power switch of the ionic cooler and use
a little hot glue to hold it in place in the drive bay. Also at this point
cut the end off the plug on the ionic cooler and run it out the back of the
case. There are some holes in this case right next to the power supply for a
water cooling kit that will work out perfectly. Splice in an outlet end so
you can power the ionic cooler and the power supply off one outlet. |
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During our testing we found that the aluminum fins on the
heatsink would develop a slight negative charge to them when the cooler was
running. To eliminate any risk of a discharge we ran a grounding wire from
the chassis to the heatsink. It also helped support the heatsinks tremendous
weight much better than without it and made me more comfortable about it. The
only way this will work is if you’re using a 3 pronged plug and its grounded correctly.
I wouldn’t run this system with 1950’s wiring in my house for instance. |
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So here is what the final assembly looks like. The final
step that we need to do is remove one air leak in the top of the case. The case
has a plastic panel in the top of the case for USB and audio hookups. It also
has a fan mounting point and some ventilation holes. We just used some 2”
wide packing tape to cover up the holes so we direct the air flow over the
motherboard and power supply heatsinks. |
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