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For this project's assembly we chose to use plexy or
acrylic in a transparent material. This aids in the illustration of this
project as well as looks cool for this build we have a basic cut list. Plexy is
fairly easy to work with for the novice as well.
Cut list:
2 - 5" X 5" 1/2
2 - 5" X 16" 3/4
1 -5" X 6" 1/2"
2 - 5" X 3" - with notches
for blades equally separated apart
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With the plexy box fully dried and cured, dry fit the
components in the bottom of the cooler. Make sure you have room for
everything to fit with ample room. Don’t get things too crowded here or
you risk a short in the form of a rogue arc. They're cool and all... but you
wont move much air with one. After the dry fit is in place use a medium to
high temperature glue gun and matching glue sticks to mount the components to
the bottom of the housing. Letting the glue gun heat up and then rapidly
pumping a pool of glue in the place you want to mount something was the
easiest way to mount these components. |
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The next step is the mounting of the plate above the
electronics that will contain the energizing wire and grounding plates. We
chose not to build this in from the start as we didn’t know what our
clearances would be. With the plexy wedged in place, apply some plexy bonding
solvent at the seams. It will wick between the pieces for a strong bond. Let
the glue cure overnight for a strong bond. At the same time, using some simple
shop clamps, mount a 1/2 inch thick pre-drilled block of acrylic at the top
and bottom of the unit 1 inch inside from the edges. Pre-drill holes in it
for the charge wires. |
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Once the glue has cured you will want to run the wires.
But in my testing I found that any sharp point or hard angle kink in the wire
will actually unevenly emit a fancy blue plasma and
really degrade the performance of the air flow. To mitigate this slightly
round the holes so the wire doesn’t form a hard angle when pulled
tight. Also use a small dab of hot glue to coat the wire once inserted. |
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