The next step is to take the 3 fins and place them in the second acrylic bracket with the fins in place line the bottoms of the fins up in the slots created by the bottom bracket and tilt the fins into the unit. On the top of the unit lower the acrylic slotted piece one inch from the top and glue in place. The reason for the gap is the wire is below the tops of the fins for starters and there for less likely to be bothered by hard edges. Secondly if for some reason you need to remove the fins down the road its easier to remove the plexy bracket than if its' whole surface was bonded to the plexy.



Now we start hooking up the power. We ordered a roll of 20Kv shielded wire from Digikey to extend the wire from the fly back transformer to the electrode wires in the front of the unit. These connections need to be made with great care so no shorts occur. If you wired the wires right on the blocks at the bottom blocks you should have the wire hop across and back up the other side. This is the optimal place to connect the wire. Drill a hole to fish it up to it, solder the connection and then insulate it with a healthy blob of hot glue.



On the rear of the unit run the second grounding wire to the blades of the filter and connect them with some wire and solder. Drilling a small hole to fish them through didn’t seem to bother the unit at all, perhaps its far enough from the electrode wires. Make the connections all with solder and insulate well with electrical tape and hot glue.



Now we get to the shielding part of the build. This is actually really easy. Take your aluminum screen and cut a piece larger than the openings on the ionic cooler. Using your hands and minding sharp edges fold the screen over the sides of the plexy. Next using some hot glue and a large flathead screwdriver lay a bead of hot glue down the edge of the plexy and use the screw driver to press the glue through the screen down to the plexy. Go slowly on this step and you should end up with a screen that is drum tight.



With the mesh done in the front and back there are two important things to do. Attach a grounding wire on the front screen and the rear screens leaving enough extra length so you can screw it to the metal inside of the case when installed for grounding. Secondly is to test that the unit still works and you didn’t blow anything up. Use caution on this step and don’t touch the unit while in operation just in case.
















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