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Before we start into the assembly process of this project. We need to dry fit the components together. You can see clearly here the interlocking wheels as well as an aluminum frame around the deck on the right. |
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So for the assembly process our first step is to drill the access holes for the LED's. Using a good metal drilling bit drill all the way through the deck. If you don’t like the holes on the top of the deck you can do one of 2 things to address them. Don’t drill through the top of the deck. We did that with deck 1.0 and the wire fishing wasn’t fun. Or fill the holes with hot glue or get some covers for them in the hardware department of your home improvement center. If you fill it with hot glue the light will emanate from the holes and it looks kinda cool as reference marks. |
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Using a couple pop rivets or even some self taping screws if you wanted to, mount the lid of the project box to a piece of aluminum bar from your local hardware store. Center it between the deck rails and rivet or screw it permanently to the deck. Once secure screw the lid back on the rest of the project box. |
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One of the most important steps both cosmetically and functionallyl is to strip and buff off the tops of the supporting rails. Paint overspray, rust, grease, blood..... Well it will all interfere with the sensors as well as look horrible with the clear plexi, and the shiny metal is just cooler looking than oxidized bare metal. One thing I heard over and over is "he says to buff it but doesn’t do anything to prevent it from rusting again." my response to that is... in a clean dry environment like your house, this should not likely rust again, and if you need to spot clean it just get a scotch bright pad. meh.... |
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To hold the tiles in the deck we used some aluminum L stock with 1/2 inch sides. We mitered the corners at 45 degrees for a snug fit then took them to someone that had a tig welder to weld the seams. After the frame was welded we installed it inside the frame with some flush mounting pop rivets. This will hold every tile in the deck securely. And it makes the center tile the master tile for both tension as well as removal of the tiles. |
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Here is a shot with the deck clamps top portions installed. The deck clamps have not been assembled at this point. We are just checking for spacing and insuring they are fitting well. |
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Here is a shot of the caps installed. These really are important for safety. If we didn’t install these and Danny was to find them the hard way we would have to start calling stumpy.... and that doesn’t work out well for anyone. Especially his dating life. |
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So here is the part that sucked. I realized the welding splatter was inside the pipe. So I got out the dremel tool and went to work. I used 16 sanding drums cleaning all that splatter out. It realy realy realy sucked. a lot! |
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| The back section of the deck with the bar supports all cleaned out. |
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| Here is a shot of the cleaned and painted handle. |
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The 2 decks joined. We installed simple clamps we picked up at the hardware store to keep them locked together. |
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This is the bar support with a hole drilled in it for the cotter key that will hold the bar securely in place. The cotter key is very tight in the hole but fits. |
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We chose to paint the bar a sparkly blue and give it several coats of clear to make it really pop. The pictures really don’t do it justice. With the bar installed snugly drill through the hole in the receiver so that the holes will line up for sure. Install the cotter key and make sure it’s tight. |
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